Headstock binding and inlay

Today I routed the edge for the headstock binding. I opted for the non-bearing bit and just made sure I went at a steady pace with no stopping. That's what burns the edges. I glued up the sides (after I shot the photo) but haven't done the top edge yet. Here's the inlay I had around my shop. It is a fake turquoise material. I thought it different from MOP. (Remember to route the edge before you glue the fingerboard, or you won't be able to reach the edge next to the nut. The router base won't fit).

...more headstock photos.

Here are a couple of the headstock. The first is the "before" look. Straightforward design, I thought. The right one shows the back of the neck. I like the wood combo. I'll trim the back of the headstcok and the neck after fretting is done. I want all the mass I can get while fretting.

Headstock shape

I finally decided on the headstock shape. Narrow, but with two strings holes on the bass side and four on the treble side. I'm going to use Fender style ferrule for the string holders. The head will be 1-1/8" thick. I used a coping saw for the sawing of the headplate and used my spindle sander for the headstock side and top edges. The new Ridgid sander is just lovely! This is how the binding will look with the fingerboard. The headstock will be bound also. I thought of using the Dremel for that one, but the guide burns the wood as it doesn't have a bearing, just a guide that stays with the cutter. I'll have to go with the router. I have lots of bearings for that one.

Headstock angle

Here's a picture of the headstock angle I did BY HAND! I had to use my chisel. The stinkin' jack plane wasn't working right, so I went "old school." I was too lazy to get the band saw out. It was only an 8 degree angle, so the wood was just a small bit. Next, I glue the rosewood headplate, silicone the truss rod in and glue up the fingerboard.

I was going to install the Stew-Mac truss rod, but needed a 7/32" router bit. As I only had a 1/4" bit, I used my Luthier's Mercantile truss rod. I had to make two passes and that caused a slight enlargment of the slot. I will buy the 7/32" bit so the fit will be perfect next time. I messed up on the first pass when the bit grabbed some wood and went off course. Lesson learned: Route from left to right. Going right to left caused the bit to grab too much wood. Keep pressure on the guide piece and go slow. (The guide piece was away from me). No big deal, as I fixed the route with some walnut scrap. I am using a body adjustable design. As it will have one pickup, the wood removal is minimal. The mahogany body is so small as my uncle Abe gave me a piece of Honduran Mahogany over 20 years ago, and I thought I'd use it "one of these days." Well, it's "one of these days," and so, the narrow design.

Wood choice for neck came out nice.

I glued up the neck and found the wood combination to be very nice. I planed them on my joiner. I got my center line ready and have the dimensions ready to transfer to the neck. I am going with a 1-7/8" nut with a 2-1/8" bridge string spread. The scale looks like it'll be a Martin scale. I had a left-over ebony fingerboard that I will inlay and use.

Neck glue-up

Today I glued up the neck. It is Rock Maple/Walnut/RM/W/RM. I used Titebone glue. Franklin (maker of Titebond) recommends you use the glue within one-year of manufacture. The code on the bottle signifies, the year (number) and month (letter) of manufacture. The hard part in gluing this neck was making sure the glue didn't harden before I had spread the glue onto EIGHT surfaces. I used a flux brush for spreading the glue. Didn't want to get finger gunk on the glue. Use plenty of clamps. I used fourteen with plenty in reserve. Better to spread out the force of the clamps then apply the force to a few areas. I made sure I glued in an area that could afford being messy. I'll let it dry overnight. I cleaned the glue surfaces with Naptha to rid the wood of oils and any other contaminants.

Started body on new design.

I started cutting the body shape after lots of time spent trying to make the body design functional and practical.
Used my Ridgid bandsaw to cut it out. I then used my 1950's Delta drill press, with a sanding drum, to sand the sides smooth. Then I used my Craftsman router with a 1/4" roundover bit. A rasp and medium single file, then sanded the body smooth.
I had to use my longsleeve shirt and mask and gloves to make sure the dust wasn't a factor. The fan keeping the dust away helped a bunch too. I need the neck done to see where the body will need to be routed.
It went quick. Two hours of work, but it was hot outside. I plan on doing the glueing up of the neck tomorrow. See you then.